What is the Lemond Method and Where Did It Come From?
The Lemond Method uses your inseam (crotch-to-floor height) to determine saddle height. Greg LeMond and his coach, Cyrille Guimard, studied biomechanical efficiency and knee alignment to develop this method.
Lemond Method Saddle Height Formula:
Saddle Height = Inseam × 0.883
This distance is measured from the center of the bottom bracket to the top of the saddle, following the axis of the seat tube. The multiplier 0.883 accounts for typical leg extension at the bottom of the pedal stroke in a performance cycling position.
How to measure your inseam accurately:
1. Stand straight against a wall, barefoot, feet shoulder-width apart.
2. Place a hardcover book between your legs, edge pressed firmly upward to mimic saddle pressure.
3. Make a mark where the book contacts the wall.
4. Measure from the floor to that mark in millimeters.
Multiply this measurement by 0.883. That’s your saddle height benchmark.
The Science Behind the Lemond Saddle Height Formula
The 0.883 coefficient was derived through empirical testing of elite cyclists, using muscle efficiency, joint range of motion, and aerodynamics as benchmarks. It optimizes the balance between knee flexion and extension during the pedal stroke, often resulting in a knee angle of 25° to 35° at full extension.
When it doesn’t:
- It doesn’t account for crank arm length, which affects leg extension and knee angle.
- It overlooks pedal stack height and shoe sole thickness.
- It assumes a neutral pelvic tilt, which varies between riders.
- Body proportions differ: a rider with long femurs may need a different setup than one with long tibias.
- Saddle design and padding can alter effective height.
These variables mean that while the Lemond Method is a great starting point, it must be fine-tuned for optimal fit. However, it’s not a foolproof or universally applicable solution, and it’s best used as a starting point rather than a definitive measurement. The method is based on a general population distribution and doesn’t account for individual anatomical variations, riding styles, or equipment differences.
If you’re riding in a more aggressive aero position like in triathlon or time trials, you’ll need to tweak more than just saddle height. These setups often shift your weight forward, change pelvic rotation, and require specific adjustments. For a deeper dive into how triathlon bike fit differs from road cycling, check out this excellent resource on Triathlon Bike Fit – A Complete Guide.
Crank Length and Saddle Height: How They Interact
Crank length plays a surprisingly big role in saddle height, and many riders overlook it.
Here’s why it matters: The longer the crank arm, the further your foot travels in a circle. That extra motion affects how much your leg extends at the bottom of the stroke.
If you switch crank lengths but keep the same saddle height, it can throw off your biomechanics—often causing knee pain or power loss.
General Rule of Thumb:
- Longer cranks (175 mm+) = slightly lower saddle (1–3 mm)
- Shorter cranks (165 mm) = slightly higher saddle (1–3 mm)
This adjustment keeps your knee angle consistent and prevents overextension or compression.
Example:
If you use the Lemond method and switch from a 172.5 mm crank to a 165 mm crank, you may want to raise your saddle about 2 mm to maintain proper leg extension.
Always recheck saddle height after changing crank length. A goniometer or motion capture tool helps confirm you’re still within the 25°–35° knee angle range.
How to Accurately Set Up Saddle Height Using Lemond's Formula
1. Measure your inseam accurately using a rigid book and a wall.
2. Apply the formula: Inseam (mm) × 0.883 = saddle height.
3. Adjust for modern setups:
- Subtract ~3 mm to offset thinner soles and pedal stacks.
- Some shoes today have cleats recessed into the sole, lowering effective leg length.
4. Set saddle height from bottom bracket center to saddle top.
5. Use tools: A spirit level and measuring tape help with precision.
6. Re-check your pedal stroke: Your hips should remain stable, knees should never fully lock or bounce.
Also verify:
- Leg extension: Heel on the pedal at 6 o’clock should result in a fully straight leg.
- Pelvic stability: No rocking on the saddle while riding.
Once saddle height feels right, it’s also important to check your saddle’s fore-aft position. A classic way to do this is the KOPS method. For a complete explanation and visual guide, take a look at this article on the KOPS Method.
When and Why the Lemond Method Might Need Adjusting
Several real-world factors may cause the Lemond formula to miss the mark:
- Crank arm length affects the radius of the pedal stroke. Riders using shorter (e.g., 165 mm) or longer (e.g., 175 mm) cranks must adjust saddle height accordingly.
- Lower back or hamstring flexibility: Limited flexibility may prevent effective anterior pelvic rotation. This can necessitate a lower saddle to avoid discomfort.
Riding with tight or injured hamstrings can make saddle height adjustments more complicated—and crucial. It’s important to adapt your position to avoid further strain or long-term setbacks. For expert advice on managing these challenges, read this detailed article on Cycling With a Hamstring Injury.
- Foot placement: Forefoot vs. midfoot cleat positioning changes effective leg length.
- Pedal type: Platforms vs. clipless pedals introduce stack height variability.
Instead of throwing the method out, use it as a reference, and refine using tools like a goniometer or motion capture analysis.
Comparing the Lemond Method to Other Saddle Height Formulas
| Method | Formula | Measurement Axis | Best For |
|---|---|---|---|
| Lemond Method | Inseam × 0.883 | Bottom bracket to saddle top | Quick, proven baseline for road cyclists |
| 109% Rule | Inseam × 1.09 | Pedal at 6 o’clock to saddle top | Factoring in crank length and leg position |
| Heel Method | Visual check with heel on pedal | Full leg extension without toe pointing | New riders and casual fit adjustments |
| Knee Angle Method | 25°–35° knee angle at bottom of stroke | Goniometer or motion capture | Advanced or performance-focused riders |
The 109% Rule generally places the saddle slightly higher than Lemond, assuming crank length (~170 mm) and foot placement are average.
Does the Lemond Method Still Works in the Modern Era
While bike tech has evolved, the Lemond Method still holds strong as a trusted foundation for dialing in saddle height.
Here’s why it continues to work:
- Efficient biomechanics: It helps reduce wasted movement and promotes consistent power through your pedal stroke.
- Easy to replicate: Once you’ve got your number, it’s simple to apply across different bikes with minimal fuss.
- Proven over time: This method has been used successfully by pro and amateur riders for decades.
- Adaptable: You can layer it with modern tools like saddle pressure mapping or motion analysis for extra precision.
Today’s gear- from low-stack pedals to smart trainers may call for small tweaks, but the Lemond Method is still one of the best places to start when dialing in your fit. Think of it as your base map before fine-tuning your ride with advanced tools.
Common Bike Fitting Questions Answered
How do I adjust for flexible or inflexible hamstrings?
What if I ride multiple bikes?
Do I still need a pro bike fit?
Your Most Pressing Saddle Height Questions
How accurate is the Lemond Method?
What’s the difference between Lemond and 109% rules?
Why subtract 3mm from the Lemond result?
Should I use multiple methods to find my saddle height?
Final Thoughts
Getting your saddle height right transforms your ride. The Lemond saddle height method gives you a reliable starting point, based on decades of performance cycling.
But don’t stop there.
Your flexibility, gear, and riding style all play a role. Listen to your body, test small tweaks, and don’t be afraid to remeasure after changes.
